| Author |
Message |
 
Grizrev
Senior Member Username: Grizrev
Post Number: 600 Registered: 8-2006
| | Posted on Saturday, July 26, 2008 - 12:22 pm: |  |
Doubtindi, if you want to use your plexiglass, you can use spring clamps at the edges as your paper begins to dry. The trick is to have the plexiglass just slightly larger than your paper. |
 
Doubtindi
New member Username: Doubtindi
Post Number: 3 Registered: 6-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 22, 2008 - 12:45 pm: |  |
I just watched Cheap Joe's video tape of how he stretches paper. I think I'll get my self some with my next order. The use of paper towels was really interesting. I have never tried that before. There is so much to learn and try. When I get settled, I may develop a style. |
 
Garydoc
Advanced Member Username: Garydoc
Post Number: 171 Registered: 8-2006
| | Posted on Monday, July 21, 2008 - 7:02 pm: |  |
Doubtindi, I've come a long way from those early "how do I do this?" questions...Gatorboard is high density foam core with an archival acid free plastic surface (NOT platicized paper like other foam cores.) As jj says: wet your paper thoroughly by soaking for 5 minutes then staple around the edges. Alternatively: soak for about a minute and paint wet on wet until the paper is beginning to dry on the surface, then staple. This is the method Joe Miller teaches and it works well because there aren't any puddles. Gary |
 
Doubtindi
New member Username: Doubtindi
Post Number: 1 Registered: 6-2008
| | Posted on Saturday, July 19, 2008 - 9:13 pm: |  |
I have gotten plexiglass which I cannot staple. I thought that soaking the paper was good enough then sealing all ends with tape. I like being able to see through the plexiglass. That way I can paint on the back of my rejects. I have no idea what gatorboard or masonite is other than putting it on the walls of your washroom. |
 
jj
| | Posted on Monday, May 24, 2004 - 2:03 pm: |  |
Garydoc - Try using Cheap joes "gatorboard". I love it, and have used it for several years. First SOAK your paper for up to 15 minutes, making sure it is thoroughly saturated, then let the excess drip off, lay it on the gatorboard and staple all around the edges about every 2"-3" inches. |
 
Anonymous
| | Posted on Monday, May 24, 2004 - 6:49 am: |  |
Garydoc - I also use a masonite board as a backer for watercolor paper. I use Winsor Newton #140(love it) and Waterford #140. My masonite board is covered in Press N Seal by Glad Wrap or Saran Wrap(it protects the board) I then wet the back of the paper with a jumbo wash brush making sure the entire paper is evenly covered then flip it over and do the front side. I usually tip it vertically so the excess water drips down. Lay it back down then blot with paper towels and then I'm ready to go. I'll put down my wet washes first when the paper is still damp. Then I'll tape off later when these start to dry. It works for me. |
 
John Preston
| | Posted on Monday, May 24, 2004 - 5:44 am: |  |
Garydoc, There are lots of stretching approaches but I think the classic method is to soak the piece of paper 2-3 minutes in a pan or tub, drain off the excess water and lay it on your board. Then tape or staple it. Wetting each side separately is root of your problem there, I think. Understand, it's going to buckle some as you paint even after stretching, regardles of brand. More so if you're a very wet painter. If you really want a flatter surface 300lb might be better. |
 
garydoc
| | Posted on Sunday, May 23, 2004 - 3:10 pm: |  |
Help! Stretching w/c paper is not keeping it from buckling. Am I doing it wrong? Even Arches 140 rough is buckled when stretched. I am wetting the back of the paper first, then laying it down on a piece of masonite. I tape around the edges while the front is dry (with masking tape), and then thoroughly soak the front with a 2" wide brush. I am letting it sit for 3-4 mins and then using a paper towel to absorb the puddles. Next day the paper is buckled! Not at all what I expected of a 1/2 sheet of Arches. Any suggestions? |
 
lou Grimm
| | Posted on Friday, July 4, 2003 - 7:08 pm: |  |
Kimbuddy, I have found I very seldom do anything framable at a workshop. I try to ignore what I have learned or been taught and concentrate on the present instructor. Just learn all you can, take your efforts home and apply the instructors ideas and techniques to your own work. Some you will want to forget about, others will be maybe even an eye-opener. I'll bet those sitting around you will have some variety of butterflies too. Get acquainted with the other students and swap ideas when time permits. Enjoy ! |
 
kimbuddy
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 2, 2003 - 7:49 pm: |  |
Only 3 days from my workshop.... any last minute advise? Nerve calming words of wisdom? :) |
 
kimbuddy
| | Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 9:19 pm: |  |
Thanks Kukana! I will keep checking back here...every little bit of advise is great. The instructor is named Jeanne Larson. Anyone hear of her before? |
 
Kukana
| | Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 4:19 pm: |  |
Kim, call the instructor or person who set up the workshop and have them read you the list of suppiles over the phone or email it to you. If they say..bring your own whatever...heres a hint. Buy arches 140CP paper and winsor newton paint. Dake, jane or john, , maybe you could offer here a few color choices. (I use suchoff teh wall colors any more I wouldn't dare try .) |
 
jandrle
| | Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 5:24 am: |  |
You might see if Dennis Daniels can get something to you in time... I hate to cut into Joe's business but if he is out of stuff and you need it... |
 
Eugenia Garcia
| | Posted on Thursday, June 26, 2003 - 8:31 pm: |  |
Kim, I remember the first class I took I had most of the wrong colors to start off with for similar reasons to yours. There were always plenty of nice students, as well as the instructor, who were willing to share supplies during class time until I figured it out. And then when you get your supplies in and you have attractive colors that everyone else doesn't have and you do, then you can share, too. Just relax and it will all work out and you will have a good time. I have learned that for just starting out with just one brush and the primary colors - anything is possible. Then add as you go. Too many colors can be confusing. Painting is an experimental process of trial and error. |
 
kimbuddy
| | Posted on Thursday, June 26, 2003 - 7:19 pm: |  |
I am getting a bit nervous. I am only about 1 week from my workshop & i have not received a supply list from the instructor. I waited too long, now i am without ANYTHING. (i hope when the Artist Colony said Watercolor for "Beginners".. they meant it) I called in a big big order to Cheap Joe's, and the majority of the stuff i ordered is on BACKORDER! UGH! The main problem for me is that i live in Mayberry. Absolutely NOwhere to buy real life supplies. I am literally going to have to stop on my drive to class to get supplies. I don't even know where to go, and Minneapolis is like Pluto or Mars to me. I am nervous anyways... this is not helping. just venting... *ugh* ~kim |
 
kimbuddy
| | Posted on Thursday, June 26, 2003 - 6:36 pm: |  |
Thanks Kukana, I have to agree about asking before taking pictures. I will certainly remember that one. I have had people taking notes and/or pictures in my booth and then not buy a thing. I sold hand painted wood crafts for about 7 years, and it would really bum me out when i would see something i knew was mine originally show up in another booth. For example... a small angel, with a poem i had written myself... word for word, painted on a copycat angel. *sigh* in a way, i guess it was a compliment. :) |
 
Kukana
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 25, 2003 - 4:11 pm: |  |
Kim..just make sure you ask before snapping photos. I am always happy to allow students to snap photos but I do like to be asked first..same at an art show...always ask. Good Luck... |
 
kimbuddy
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 25, 2003 - 6:34 am: |  |
Dazey~ Another great suggestion! thank you, i am taking notes :) |
 
dazey
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2003 - 4:44 pm: |  |
you are welcome. I have received plenty of advice and help along the way. Another thing I thought of. I always take a camera to a class or workshop. You might want to photograph a technique or demonstration, and most instructors are happy to let you. |
 
kimbuddy
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2003 - 6:53 am: |  |
Dazey~ THANK YOU THANK YOU, i am getting more excited every day :) |
 
dazey
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2003 - 6:43 am: |  |
kim, you can order anything you need from cheap joe's. i would order a piece of gator board for your backing board (lighter weight than plywood), a palette as mentioned by John above, 6-8 tubes of paint, 10 sheets of arches 140 lb. cold press paper and the brushes mentioned by John above. Also take a roll of paper towels and a container (like an old cool whip containter) to hold your water. Take a couple of pencils, a small sketchbook. You might also need some photographs for references. I always take more photo references than I think I will need. The customer service people at Cheap Joe's are most helpful. You might want to call them and let them help you make some decisions and place your order. Good luck and have fun. |
 
Kimbuddy
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 24, 2003 - 6:41 am: |  |
JOHN, THANK YOU SO MUCH! This is the first direction i have gotten, other than my own research. I printed it out immediately! My class is a beginners watercolor class, so i am sure these items will fit right in. I was thinking of MAYBE buying the Cheap Joes Cookie Box Supreme, but that would bring my workshop spending budget over the top. (shhhhh dont tell my husband) But, hey... you only live once! Must Paint! (or in my case...learn) :) Thanks John! ~Kim |
 
John Preston
| | Posted on Monday, June 23, 2003 - 7:39 pm: |  |
Kim, Assuming it's not a highly specialized class, there are some basic items just about everyone uses: Arches paper in sheet form and a 1/2" thick plywood board to staple it to. Alternatively, an Arches block eliminates the need for board and stapler. 10x14 is a good size to start with. A 1" or 3/4" flat brush and a No.6 or 8 round brush. Colors...? Winsor Newton is the benchmark but American Journey is pretty good paint (way better than the student colors, which just frustrate students) I would suggest a warm and cool version of blue, yellow and red, plus a few earth colors: Ultramarine blue and Pthalo blue(Joe's blue in AJ, Winsor blue in W&N), Bumblebee yellow (AJ) or Winsor Lemon(W&N) and Gamboge(AJ)or New Gamboge(W&N), Permanent Alizarin Crimson(W&N) or Alizarin Crimson(AJ) and Cadmium scarlet(AJ or W&N),plus Yellow ochre, Burnt Sienna and maybe Pthalo green( Joe's green in AJ, Winsor green in W&N). A Pike or Robert Wood palette or their equivalent, and a 2B or 4B pencil. I'm sure you'd use these items over time even if the class calls for specialized stuff. |
 
Kimbuddy
| | Posted on Monday, June 23, 2003 - 11:09 am: |  |
I am only 2 weeks away from my first ever watercolor workshop. I am very excited, but also crazy nervous. I live in a small town in Southern Minnesota, total Mayberry, so needless-to-say, my supply options are limited. I was hoping to order supplies online, and have been waiting for word about some kind of supply list. I have heard NOTHING. I even called & asked, and the Artist Colony said they would get back to me. *sigh* Time is ticking, and i am afraid i am going to have to 'punt' on my own here. I have been reading a lot, researching, and was hoping someone could give me a simple run down of what a beginners watercolor class supply list might include. I would love to walk into class on day 1 not looking like a total dork. Thank you soooo much for any help you could offer. ~Kim kimbuddy@yahoo.com |
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